Chef Carvel Grant Gould

Executive Chef Carvel Grant Gould knows a thing or two about being natural.

She followed her own instincts when, after college, she spoke up about her desire to become a chef. Her parents tried to talk her out of it, but to no avail. They sent her to a family friend, who happened to be a successful restaurateur in Atlanta, for a tough talk. To show her what life was really like, he said he’d put her on the line in his kitchen for three days. The scare tactic didn’t work, and Gould stayed on. “I worked every station and I worked my way up,” she says. That was 17 years ago. Now she’s the executive chef at Canoe, one of Atlanta’s premier restaurants and go-to destinations for special occasions. Nestled on the Chattahoochee River in the high-end neighborhood of Buckhead, Canoe is a modern yet rustic retreat. Gould and her team of 36 turn out plate after plate of delicious continental American cuisine.

Steeped in the tradition of using natural ingredients with no preservatives and as much organic produce as possible, Gould is a member of Slow Food Atlanta, a local chapter of the international movement to reverse the fast-food trend and focus on supporting local and regional farmers. “I don’t use anything with preservatives, and I make absolutely everything in-house. It’s a ‘full-scratch’ restaurant, which is unusual for a restaurant of our size. For instance, [store-bought] heavy cream is made with emulsifiers. This is the norm, and what everybody uses. But I found a dairy here in Georgia that I can buy fresh cream from, and it has no additives in it. I definitely go with the all-natural approach.”

Gould maintains a strong partnership with local farmers. Because of her large demand for fresh vegetables, the growers actually plant items based on her requests. “Some of my farmers will say to me, ‘Tell me what you what me to plant.’” Gould works with Cimino Farms out of Reynolds, GA, to obtain the signature ingredient for her African squash soup, which she blends with a lime-based cream and tops with crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds. “I probably buy 90 percent of their crop,” she says. “I talk to all my purveyors to find out what they’ve got coming up, too. Then I’ll decide what’s going to be on the menu, or what’s in such limited supply that it’ll only be a special. I’m always searching for new and fun ingredients, and I incorporate them into what I’m doing. And I love working with the farmers.” After a pause, she adds with a laugh, “That’s how I roll.”

With Gould’s new “Local Yokel” three-course prix fixe menu offered nightly, Canoe diners can partake in an ever-changing rotation of dishes prepared from local farmers’ and fishermen’s ingredients. The meal is $30 without alcohol, and $40 with pre-selected organic wine pairings for the first two courses. “I want to support the farmers,” she says. “And it helps that customers are also getting a great deal.”
Not everything is regional at Canoe, however. Gould sources her venison from New Zealand simply because “that’s the best place for venison.” But Canoe, which is by a river and (as the name implies) focuses on water, offers mostly seafood dishes. Gould is known for her escapades in Alaska on crab-catching adventures. A fan of Discovery Channel’s top-rated show “The Deadliest Catch,” Gould has ventured to Dutch Harbor, AK, for two consecutive autumns to participate in the opening of king crab season and experience the entire fishing process firsthand. She even brings back some of the savory seafood to share with her Atlanta clientele.

Gould is highly committed not just to using all-natural ingredients in her dishes for Canoe, but also to furthering her community outreach through organizations such as Slow Food, which she says is about “returning to our roots. We need to analyze what we’re eating, and obviously, Slow Food is a part of that… I want to pass the knowledge onto our guests, too,” she says. “It’s time for a change. Everybody’s ready for it. I definitely want to be a part of it.” •

Canoe is located at 4199 Paces Ferry Road NW. For more information, call 770.432.2663 or visit canoe-atl.com. Learn more about Slow Food at slowfood.com.

Grilled Okra with Fresh Pea and Serrano Ham Salad

Serves 6

1 lb.        Okra, Fresh from Nicolas’ Farm- cut in half, lengthwise – grilled
1 cup        Butter Beans, Fresh – Cooked
1 cup        Lady Peas, Fresh- Cooked
1 cup        Crowder Peas, Fresh – Cooked
½ cup        Grape Tomatoes, Quartered
2        Shallots, finely minced
3 oz.        Serrano Ham, thinly shaved, chiffonade
¼ cup        Parsley, Italian- roughly chopped
¼ cup        Oven Dried Plum Tomatoes, chopped
½ cup        Corn, Fresh Cut Kernels- Lightly Sautéed and Chilled
Salt and Pepper to Taste

DRESSING
1 Tbs        Garlic, Minced
1 Tbs        Shallot, Minced
2/3 cup        Sherry Wine Vinegar
¼ cup        Mustard, Whole Grain
½ cup        Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper to Taste

COOKING INSTRUCTIONS

Toss 1st 10 ingredients together in a large bowl.  Salt and Pepper to Taste

Dressing – Combine 1st 4 ingredients in a small bowl, slowly whisk in extra virgin olive oil.  Salt and Pepper to Taste.

Add Dressing to the tossed salad and divide amongst 6 plates.  (If desired, may garnish plate with organic lettuces)